Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

30m.

Rockfax Description
A line of bolts leads to a rather intense finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the line of 11 bolts to the Left of 'The Gorbals'. Thin, sustained and sequency climbing by the top 4 bolts. Lower off.

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 22/Apr/2010.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , Rarely repeated Slate Sport 7's , Sl@teheads Sl@te , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7c & 7c+

Feedback

User Date Notes
FreddieSmith 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: This climb is ace, very hard top section using very small feet and hands, crux for me was the move before the good holds at the top, bouncing left foot to tiny edge, going left hand to mono to allow the right to the split crimp taken Vulcan style, then the sketchiest rock over to the rail. Hard to read and spooky.
Show beta
βeta: This climb is ace, very hard top section using very small feet and hands, crux for me was the move before the good holds at the top, bouncing left foot to tiny edge, going left hand to mono to allow the right to the split crimp taken Vulcan style, then the sketchiest rock over to the rail. Hard to read and spooky.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Route of Interest
The Quarryman P1

Grade: 7c ***
(Twll Mawr)

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