Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

20m. Burning Ambition is definitely a contrived eliminate. Climb as for House Burning Down until the rail above the cave. Stand up on the rail on its left hand side, using a small crimpy side pull. Clip the eco bolt out right, then move out left on tiny crimps and smeary feet (avoiding the temping arete) until you reach a pocket: from this powerful moves lead up to the jug. Move back right on better holds, clip the next bolt and head up the groove of House Burning Down, avoiding the heel hook and arete out right. An attentive belayer is needed as a fall after the eco bolt will result in quite a swing.

Thomas Ball 10/Apr/2010.

Ticklists

South West 8's , UK 8a and up , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy

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High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Route of Interest
The Milky Bar Kid

Grade: 8a ***
(Brean Down)

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