Rockfax Description
180m. Although not as good as the Southeast Ridge, this is still a nice way onto the Index summit. The bolting is sparse on all but the trickiest sections so having a grade in hand is advised. Some of the bolts are tricky to spot too.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb the slab, passing a short steep section halfway up, to a belay on a small notch.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the arête above to a belay just below the grassy ramp that splits the face. Once you've brought up your second(s) scramble up to and across the ramp to a single bolt belay at the foot of a light-coloured slab.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab, drifting right initially and then coming back left to belay. There are no bolts until 10m up the pitch so take care on the lower section.
4) 5c, 25m. Continue up the slab and the steep crack above.
5) 5b, 20m. More slabs lead to an exposed stance.
6) 5b, 25m. Ignore the ramp leading out right and head up the steep wall split by a crack. Belay just below the ridge crest.
7) 3c, 15m. Climb the final pitch of the Southeast Ridge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6a free, 5c obl.
Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kike Kikon | 5 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some pitches can be run together with a 60m rope and long QDs, take at least 14 if planning to do so. A few small nuts and a couple small cams could be handy if not comfortable leading runout 5b's | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Some pitches can be run together with a 60m rope and long QDs, take at least 14 if planning to do so. A few small nuts and a couple small cams could be handy if not comfortable leading runout 5b's |
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Webster | 3 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: first pitch is 4c not 5b. 3rd pitch has a good 2 bolt belay just above the girdle ledge, and is well bolted in the first 10m, contrary to wrongfax description. it is however very runout in the middle on chossy ground. | ||
Show beta
βeta: first pitch is 4c not 5b. 3rd pitch has a good 2 bolt belay just above the girdle ledge, and is well bolted in the first 10m, contrary to wrongfax description. it is however very runout in the middle on chossy ground. |
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Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)