Rockfax Description
190m. Less popular route than its neighbour but still a worthwhile outing with some sections of good climbing.
1) 4b, 30m. A steady enough start up the grassy wall which leads to a belay at the back of a ledge.
2) 5c, 25m. Steep and puzzling climbing leads up the wall. From the top, make a 40m abseil down the west side to arrive back on the ground, almost at the start of the first pitch.
3) 5c, 40m. A pitch which looks easier than it turns out to be!
4) 6a, 35m. Climb the steep wall to a crux after 10m. Follow the easier slab above to the top of the pinnacle and abseil 30m down the West Face to reach the next pitch.
5) 4b, 20m. A connecting pitch with easy climbing up the slab. From the top, walk 10m leftwards to the final buttress.
6) 5c/A0 or 6b, 25m. Follow the arĂȘte then step right and climb the steep wall to a small ledge. The grade is dependent on a cheeky pull on a bolt at the crux and gets 6b if done free.
7) 5a, 15m. Easier climbing up the crest of the rib leads to the end of the pitch 4 of La Tartiflette. Follow this or make a 40m abseil back down the last two pitches. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
Webster 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: pitch 2 is 5a at most, and is neither steep nor puzzling. it follows the obvious ramp out leftwards from the belay on jugs most of the way (granted its very run out). careful of the hollow sounding flake half way up the pitch, try not to pull outwards on it. also, the '40m absail' is more like 30m, and can definitely be done with a doubled over 60m rope! you will at very least reach a good ledge if not the deck.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pitch 2 is 5a at most, and is neither steep nor puzzling. it follows the obvious ramp out leftwards from the belay on jugs most of the way (granted its very run out). careful of the hollow sounding flake half way up the pitch, try not to pull outwards on it. also, the '40m absail' is more like 30m, and can definitely be done with a doubled over 60m rope! you will at very least reach a good ledge if not the deck.

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 2
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Route Major

Grade: TD- ***
(Mont Blanc)

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