300m. Called Raeburn's Buttress Direct in the old SMC guide, but renamed because it is not a direct version of the original route. It starts well to the right and takes a completely seperate line to reach the upper crest. It crosses the big chimney od the Superdirect (name retianed). Start at a bay below and right of the big shelf and just right of Tritium CHimney. Take a turfy line leading rightwards to the brink of the big Superdirect chimney. Climb the wall on the left of the chimney to a ledge and continue to another terrace. Here a steep wall rises for 30m forming an incipient tower close to the chimney. Follow a groove leftwards passing an icy section by ledges on the vertical right wall. From a narrow terrace make a sensational traverse right for 15m over large detached blocks beneath an overhang to gain a recess in the Superdirect chimney. Cross the chimney, moving right to reach easy ground, then follow the upper crest to the top.

W.D.Brokker, S.H.Wilkinson 20/Dec/1967.

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Slick Ops '22 - Stars only

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Route of Interest
1978 Face Route

Grade: IV 4 ***
(An Teallach - Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill)

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