Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
12m.

Rockfax Description
The central line has lost holds (formerly 7a+). Cool moves and a definite crux at the roof. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 1990s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Kennard 31 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The loss of a large jug meant that this felt more like 7c to me!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The loss of a large jug meant that this felt more like 7c to me!

Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

Guidebooks for Lulworth

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 1 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Route of Interest
Total Seizure

Grade: 7c ***
(The Promenade)

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