Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
14m.

Rockfax Description
7b, S0. Follow Hornier Than Thou past its crux before making a testing move to gain the large porthole on Horny Lil' Devil. Finish across Horny Lil' Devil. © Rockfax

FSA. Joff Cook 2001.

Ticklists

Dorset DWS progression

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User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 12 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fun monkeying at a very amenable height above the water! better line than 'hornier than thou'
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun monkeying at a very amenable height above the water! better line than 'hornier than thou'
john nightingale 23 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: onsighted it on sunday. showing dan BGM and paul, the way deserves 3 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: onsighted it on sunday. showing dan BGM and paul, the way deserves 3 stars

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Aquatic Ape

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Blackers Hole)

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