Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
45m.

Rockfax Description
6b+, S0, 45m. An enjoyable traverse. Start by scrambling around to a ledge in the first cave. Make a wild swing onto the underside of a slab and then onto a boulder in the back of the second cave. Continue to the arete. Reverse the route. © Rockfax

FSA. Pete Oxley and a team of locals 29/May/1993.

Ticklists

Dorset weekender , Dorset DWS progression , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , South West Coast Traversing ticklist , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , South England DWS Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Probably the best warm up at the crag. dries quickly, not too sharp, pumpy, juggy and with plenty of rests to avoid the flashpump. excellent!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably the best warm up at the crag. dries quickly, not too sharp, pumpy, juggy and with plenty of rests to avoid the flashpump. excellent!
tombeasley 23 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent deep water solo gets better and better everytime!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent deep water solo gets better and better everytime!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Bouldered
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Traverse of the Gods

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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