Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restiction applies to the whole of Hedbury Big Cove crag during nesting season.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Weird and wonderful flowstone. A very nice route with technical moves on small crimps. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Oct/1990.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Swanage , Hedbury In a Day , Hedbury Sport Routes , Swanage Sport Routes , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
danrob23 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The middle section feels harder than a 6a+. Really rewarding when you get it.
Show beta
βeta: The middle section feels harder than a 6a+. Really rewarding when you get it.
simonzxr 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is a good 6C with one hard rockover using the two crimps to gain the flake....better than the non direct in my opinion
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The direct start is a good 6C with one hard rockover using the two crimps to gain the flake....better than the non direct in my opinion
Alex More 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Another contender for best 6a in Swanage, the rock fall at start has not changed the grade, just made the beginning a bit more interesting
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Another contender for best 6a in Swanage, the rock fall at start has not changed the grade, just made the beginning a bit more interesting
McBirdy 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is hard for 6c - not sure if all the holds are still there? Felt more like 7a+ to me. Rocking over onto the slab is non-trivial... The conventional start is lovely - nice holds, great climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The direct start is hard for 6c - not sure if all the holds are still there? Felt more like 7a+ to me. Rocking over onto the slab is non-trivial... The conventional start is lovely - nice holds, great climbing.
Marq 11 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route with technical moves on small crimps.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route with technical moves on small crimps.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 126
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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