Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch that follows a thin crack system in the impressive hanging wall at the back of the zawn. The last 8m is on poor rock and it is advisable to pre-place a rope down this section. Start under the large overhang at the base of the wall.
1) 6a, 38m. Take the steep wall to the overhang and move up into the equally-steep groove on the right. Exit the groove at its top, moving out left to the base of the wall and less-steep ground. Climb to a wide horizontal break, move right and climb a crack to another wide horizontal break. Move up to a tiny triangular ledge and then go left to a thin crack and follow this to a ledge, sustained. Belay on pre-placed rope.
2) 8m. Either abseil off, or aid out on the rope with care. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 04/Apr/1981.
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)