Rockfax Description
Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. Start as for Tudor Rose at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 6a, 25m. Follow Tudor Rose to the small rest ledge on its traverse and then climb up to a narrow overhang. Move up to the groove above and make a very hard move to enter it and exit right to a good hold. Climb the short wall above to the faultline and a hanging belay on nuts, cams and a thread.
2) 6a, 25m. Move up right for 5m and step left to a foot-ledge. Move up to the base of the white wall, then climb thin breaks and flakes, past twin pegs, to another peg, and a final, long move to a good hold just below a long ledge. Gain the ledge, and traverse right to a corner. Climb this with care to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 08/Jan/1983.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| psicobloc | 11 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope | βeta? | |
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βeta: i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope |
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| matt perks | 26 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge
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Ocean Boulevard
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)