Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

Rockfax Description
A remote route that takes a looping line across the hanging wall above the sea cave, then back across the capping white wall. Start at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.

1) 5b, 42m. Move onto a ledge and pull up a short, steep wall to a slab on the right. Move steeply up left to a crackline and jugs. Traverse left to a tiny short corner and rest ledge at its top. Move left to a short right-facing corner, then traverse left once again to the base of a corner/groove line. Climb this past the mid-height faultline to a belay on ledges above.
2) 5b, 25m. From the right-hand end of the ledge move up a flake, and into a shallow groove on the left. Make a tricky move to a good horizontal crack above, then traverse rightwards to a narrow ledge. Move right along the ledge to a blocky corner and climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 2 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nice route, interesting line. second pitch is not for shorties!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice route, interesting line. second pitch is not for shorties!
cem 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, even if the difficulties on pitch 2 are so short lived.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, even if the difficulties on pitch 2 are so short lived.
GrahamD 12 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Agree that it is intimidating to second pitch 1 but the moves are not too desperate. E2 for situation. Its a shame that pitch 2 eases off so much after reaching the break - still ***
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. Agree that it is intimidating to second pitch 1 but the moves are not too desperate. E2 for situation. Its a shame that pitch 2 eases off so much after reaching the break - still ***

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Peccary

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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