Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wandering outing but with good pitches. Start at the very right-hand side of the low roof.
1) 6a, 25m. Gain a chimney and traverse left for 8m (peg under the strip roof) then move up to a peg below another roof. Swing out to a bottomless small groove and climb its left-hand side via a fingery rib before trending right to join Tudor Rose. Hanging belay at the right-hand end of a narrow roof.
2) 5b, 10m. Move left for 3m and climb a shallow groove. At the top of this traverse left again, and down, to the recessed belay on Dougal the Great.
3) 5c, 30m. Head diagonally rightwards to the faultline and swing along to a good ledge (peg). From the left-hand side reach a peg, step left and move boldly up the wall to good finishing holds. Exit right then left up an easy groove. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 27/Nov/1982.

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Route of Interest
Wall of the Worlds

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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