Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

25m.

Rockfax Description
Nicely situated climbing. Start below the arete, and climb it easily to a ledge at 15m. Trend rightwards and ascend a thin crack, just left of the upper arete, finishing up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 27/Mar/1983.

Ticklists

Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 12 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Finally made it back for a rematch - superb crimpy climbing up the headwall, with more gear than you shake a wire at! Scary top outs on all these routes though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finally made it back for a rematch - superb crimpy climbing up the headwall, with more gear than you shake a wire at! Scary top outs on all these routes though.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 7
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Elysium

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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