Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

35m.

Rockfax Description
Really good climbing in an exposed position. Quite well protected but very pumpy with a strenuous finish. Watch out for rope drag. Climb a rib, then head diagonally leftwards to the arete. Follow a flake crack just right of the arete to a thread and peg on Procrastinating Giant. Finish as for that route. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, D.Light 24/Sep/1983.

Ticklists

Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E5 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ellis Bird 8 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced the thread near the top. Sept 2020.
Show beta
βeta: Replaced the thread near the top. Sept 2020.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Vanishing

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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