Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

25m.

Rockfax Description
A big, steep pitch. Well protected by nuts and a few pegs. Start on the right-hand side of the boulder beach, below the overhanging groove line. Climb a thin crack (2 pegs) then up a corner (peg) to a niche (pegs). Gain the steep corner above and follow it to a crux undercut (peg and thread) which leads, via a vertical crack, to an old bolt belay. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 23/Aug/1990.

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Route of Interest
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Grade: E7 6c ***
(Lulworth)

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