250m, 5 pitches. Start at foot of WG proper. Good spike belay 5m right and low. This means having climbed the grade III ground below as for WG

1. 60m 4 - Step into WG Gully then, out right onto short steep wall leading to a right trending ramp. Good spikes at its top protect a swing right into top of 1st pitch of Birdsong. Share its spike belay.
2. 35m 5 - Step left slightly, and with a steep start, gain a groove leading to another good spike below a big left facing corner. Shared with Birdsong.
3. 40m 6 Step up onto a turfy traverse leading leftwards to the arête and very good protection. Step down a bit to traverse along a lucky flake to a steep turfy groove above Western Gully. Have it up this to an airy Armchair stance on a big flake on its left edge (overall a not too well protected pitch).
4. 40m 6 Stride off the flake into another groove on the right. This splits immediately. Take the right fork to a ledge up and right. This is below and right of the capping roof, and an obvious perched block. Step right across a ledge to its end. Then climb into a steep bulgy turfy groove which leads, with immense exposure to a big terrace (better protected but steep and sustained than P3).
5. 80m 4 Climb just left of the crest of the tower above to easy ground.

Mark Richards Tim Neill. 03/Jan/2010.

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