250m, 6 pitches.
Starts as for Passchendale at the upper main cliff above the pre-amble, taking either start to gain the ramp.
125m Pre-amble as Passchendale.
1. 60m (4) Follow the obvious turfy grooves trending rightwards to a ramp going right & then up. Quite a bold pitch & a poor belay on frozen turf. The steeper groove on the right provides a harder alternative to gain the ramp.
2. 60m (4) Follow the line of turfy grooves & ledges directly above to an ancient (Great War?!) in situ belay which can be backed up. Spaced but good gear. (The more rightward trending grooves you could be aiming for may be unattainable!)
3. 60m (5) Climb directly above the belay & then traverse 5m right to the bottom of the chimney/groove. Well protected but difficult moves over a chockstone & another steep move above that lead to a bay & easy climbing to the ridge.
4. 40m (1) Easily to the top.
125m Pre-amble as Passchendale.
1. 60m (4) Follow the obvious turfy grooves trending rightwards to a ramp going right & then up. Quite a bold pitch & a poor belay on frozen turf. The steeper groove on the right provides a harder alternative to gain the ramp.
2. 60m (4) Follow the line of turfy grooves & ledges directly above to an ancient (Great War?!) in situ belay which can be backed up. Spaced but good gear. (The more rightward trending grooves you could be aiming for may be unattainable!)
3. 60m (5) Climb directly above the belay & then traverse 5m right to the bottom of the chimney/groove. Well protected but difficult moves over a chockstone & another steep move above that lead to a bay & easy climbing to the ridge.
4. 40m (1) Easily to the top.
Chris Ayres & Len Lovatt 16/Feb/1990.
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Route of Interest
Central Gully
Grade: V ***
(Y Lliwedd)