145m, 5 pitches. A mixed route with; ice, turf and rock route to the left of Gallipoli starting from high in Central Gully. Start 20m below Central Gully chock-stones at an ice smear on the right wall.
1. 45m 5 Climb the Ice streak to where it ends and move right on turf and iced rock to good gear in block. Back left on turf to thin exit onto easier ground and up to base of a large block. Travers beneath this and climb up and leftwards to a belay ledge overlooking CG at the foot of a short sharp rib.
2. 35m 4 Climb the left side of the rib for 30m to a short off-width formed by a large flake. Climb this to a belay on large spikes.
3. 35m 4From the top left spike climb the short wall using the narrow turf line to a large ‘walkway’ ledge below a 2nd rib. Climb the left side of this up cracks and past spikes to top the rib.
4. 20m 2Up easy ground and exit via a crack in the right wall of a diagonal slot to complete the technical climbing.
5. 120m of grade 1 ground leads to the summit ridge.

Chris Parkin & Paul Platt 02/Jan/2010.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

Guidebooks for Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Route of Interest
Western Gully Direct Finish

Grade: V 5 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))

Loading Notifications...