3 pitches.
From SMC Journal:
Takes the obvious corner in the centre of Magic Bow Wall direct all the way. A classic companion to Nose direct, every bit as good, and about the same grade overall. Start as for Magic Bow Wall but where this breaks right stick to the corner for two long sustained pitches. A further easier pitch leads to broken ground near the top. There were thin streaks of ice on the first ascent, but these appeared far from essential, the hooks being reliable and the angle not severe.
Takes the obvious corner in the centre of Magic Bow Wall direct all the way. A classic companion to Nose direct, every bit as good, and about the same grade overall. Start as for Magic Bow Wall but where this breaks right stick to the corner for two long sustained pitches. A further easier pitch leads to broken ground near the top. There were thin streaks of ice on the first ascent, but these appeared far from essential, the hooks being reliable and the angle not severe.
Martin Moran, Pete McPherson, Guy Robertson 08/Jan/2010.
Ticklists
The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Ultimate Scottish VII’s , Martin Moran Routes
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Guidebooks for Sgurr an Fhidhleir
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Route of Interest
The Starting Blocks
Grade: VII 8 ***
(Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nan Lochan)