20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant outing for the grade, travelling through some awesome overhangs with good protection. Start below a niche.
1) 5b, 10m. Attain the small niche then move right into a chimney. Swing right along a roof and climb a groove to the next roof. Ape through this to an amazing hanging perch and belay.
2) 6a, 10m. Power boldly through the roof-crack on the right to below another roof. Traverse left to an arete, then climb the corner above to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner Nov/1978.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

Feedback

User Date Notes
daveycrocket 3 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great outing and perfectly protected too. The only hard move is getting round the roof and by hard, we mean f-ing desperate, even for swanage. We had to aid the mother and that was hard enougth ! PS- belay hard to arrange so that you don't get pulled of your perch when your leader rests / falls on the gear !!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great outing and perfectly protected too. The only hard move is getting round the roof and by hard, we mean f-ing desperate, even for swanage. We had to aid the mother and that was hard enougth ! PS- belay hard to arrange so that you don't get pulled of your perch when your leader rests / falls on the gear !!!

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Facedancin'

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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