130m, 3 pitches.
The right-hand of twin icefalls on the central sector. Split in the middle by a broad snow ledge.
Pitch 1, 55m, 90+ degrees. Climb easily up to the cave (15m) and twin pillars of ice, bridge up these to a rest (5m) and more steep ice. 35m of easy snow and ice lead to a belay below the next steepining.
Pitch 2, 20m, 75 degrees. Either go right or left of the rock band and beley above it, below the central ice sheet/groove.
Pitch 3, 80/55 degrees, 55m. Climbe up the sheet of steep and thin ice, first moving slightly left, then back right until the angle eases. 35m of easy ice leads to the top.
Pitch 1, 55m, 90+ degrees. Climb easily up to the cave (15m) and twin pillars of ice, bridge up these to a rest (5m) and more steep ice. 35m of easy snow and ice lead to a belay below the next steepining.
Pitch 2, 20m, 75 degrees. Either go right or left of the rock band and beley above it, below the central ice sheet/groove.
Pitch 3, 80/55 degrees, 55m. Climbe up the sheet of steep and thin ice, first moving slightly left, then back right until the angle eases. 35m of easy ice leads to the top.
A.Fulton, B.Wear, J.Sutton 10/Jan/2010.
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Route of Interest
Tour de Force
Grade: VI 6 ***
(Sgurr Thearlaich)