UKH
75m, 4 pitches. An exceptional winter line; first climbed in heavily verglassed conditions. Protection generally plentiful but complicated by iced cracks – large cams/chocks/hex’s and several long slings required.
1. The main chimney line was climbed direct through the roofs; strenuous but accommodating (superb, easy 8).
2. The cracked roof above the belay was climbed direct instead of the ladder dyke on the left (strenuous, hard 8).
3. Very strenuous exit up crack on right side of dyke (hard 8).
4. Awkward finish at the chockstone (7).

Nick Carter & Martin Moran 24/Nov/2008.

Ticklists

Winter VIIIs , Martin Moran Routes

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

14 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Am Basteir

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Scottish Rock Volume 2: North Cover
Scottish Rock Volume 2: North (2020)
Pesda Press
By Gary Latter
Scottish Rock - North Cover
Scottish Rock - North (2009)
Pesda Press
By Gary Latter
Guidebook correction for this climb
19 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High IX
Mid IX
Low IX
High VIII
Mid VIII
Low VIII
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
Votes cast 8
High 9
Mid 9
Low 9
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 4
Please Login as Existing User to vote
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pitch 3 on the FWA
Mongoose Direct (Winter)

Grade: VIII 8 ***
(Sgurr Mhic Choinnich)

Loading Notifications...