UKH

Restricted Access

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
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Last update: 04/04/2022  

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16m. A bold test piece which might be E3 as a true on-sight. Taking a look at it whilst lowering off the Spider P1 belay is suggested as the upper part of the pitch is proper spicy. Towards the top, it is tempting to escape onto the Gt. Western ramp, however the finest line is to stay just right of the rib and climb direct to the belay. It is possible to place a micro before that final section (hard to spot), which calms the nerves slightly. It is also worth bouldering out the highball bottom section (Arachnophobic) before tying on.

Robbie Warke 1988.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Devon Bouldering Cover
Devon Bouldering (2024)
Rockfax
By Dave Henderson, Ben Stokes
West Country Climbs Cover
West Country Climbs (2022)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
South Devon Cover
South Devon (2018)
The Climbers Club
By Pete Saunders
Guidebook correction for this climb
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 2
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moving through the first crux
Aviation/Rhinoceros

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Haytor)

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