Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m.

Rockfax Description
A superb stamina test that follows the cracked face right of The Lean Machine. It shares the middle section of The Lean Machine and has a tough start and finish. Start at a thin crack.
Climb to the low faultline and then follow a thin crack with difficulty to a slot. Continue to join The Lean Machine and follow it to a shallow horizontal break. Climb out rightwards to a small recess and move up out of it with difficulty until a move left gains a flake. Join and finish up The Lean Machine. Finish by pulling out via a pre-placed/abseil rope. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jul/1985.

Ticklists

Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Relax and Swing

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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