Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m.

Rockfax Description
A hard pitch with good but spaced protection. A real arm destroyer. Start as for The Lean Machine. Follow The Lean Machine to a good hold 2m above the low faultline. Traverse left on big hand-holds to a crack and take this to a move up left to a flake. Continue to below a blank calcite sheet near the top. This provides a testing climax. Exit right through the upper overhang and climb a thin slab rightwards to a ledge. Finish by pulling out via a pre-placed/abseil rope. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 15/Sep/1985.

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Route of Interest
El Guapo

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lulworth)

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