Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The left arete of the huge roofs of The Fin is exposed and gives extraordinary climbing. One of the best VSs in the Ruckle.
1) 4b, 17m. Climb a crack to a small ledge. Traverse right and up a short corner to a sentry box and belay.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse right along the faultline for 5m, then climb rightwards to gain the arete. Follow the arete to an overhang. Pull over and climb past a large flake to an easy exit groove. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, K.Knight 14/May/1978.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Swanage A-Z , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Classic VS's , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AndrewP | 18 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: It took me an age to find the belay stake at the top. It was completely overgrown with vegetation in the edge of the scrub. Just keep looking! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It took me an age to find the belay stake at the top. It was completely overgrown with vegetation in the edge of the scrub. Just keep looking! |
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| Fidget | 7 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I tried the traverse with feet in big break first, but found the hand holds too vague, and discovered the lower traverse was easier. Either way, you've still got to pull up onto the face, which is the bit I failed on! (I could see the thread runner... far above me...) Must go back when my elbow's recovered and I've got my strength back. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I tried the traverse with feet in big break first, but found the hand holds too vague, and discovered the lower traverse was easier. Either way, you've still got to pull up onto the face, which is the bit I failed on! (I could see the thread runner... far above me...) Must go back when my elbow's recovered and I've got my strength back. |
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| Bob M | 3 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think the way to do the traverse is with your feet in the big break. Bridge up out of back of the sentry box and fix a good high runner. Shuffle across on good footholds until you are about half way to the arete, then pull up on to the wall above. Now you can stand in balance, fix a thread runner, enjoy the exposure and pose for photos. A memorable pitch and probably the best VS at Swanage. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I think the way to do the traverse is with your feet in the big break. Bridge up out of back of the sentry box and fix a good high runner. Shuffle across on good footholds until you are about half way to the arete, then pull up on to the wall above. Now you can stand in balance, fix a thread runner, enjoy the exposure and pose for photos. A memorable pitch and probably the best VS at Swanage. |
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| Fidget | 28 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Following on from Jason's comment, another significant block has come off the traverse, check out the picture! - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=34302 I think the rest of that break is fairly solid, but you now have to make the move up from the break a little further left. Great climbing, but I completely failed in trying to pull up from the fault onto the face/arete so my partner had to take over. Personally I thought that move was harder than 4c, but I'm out of practise so not sure. The traverse is the best bit, (beta spoiler....) you need to do a hand traverse along the lower ledge, the foot holds don't look like much but they're actually pretty reasonable. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Following on from Jason's comment, another significant block has come off the traverse, check out the picture! - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=34302 I think the rest of that break is fairly solid, but you now have to make the move up from the break a little further left. Great climbing, but I completely failed in trying to pull up from the fault onto the face/arete so my partner had to take over. Personally I thought that move was harder than 4c, but I'm out of practise so not sure. The traverse is the best bit, (beta spoiler....) you need to do a hand traverse along the lower ledge, the foot holds don't look like much but they're actually pretty reasonable. |
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| Ewan | 7 Oct, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one felt easy for 4b, starting pitch 2 was 4c, the rest was 4b but very exposed and great gear all the way, very atmospheric with big seas below ! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch one felt easy for 4b, starting pitch 2 was 4c, the rest was 4b but very exposed and great gear all the way, very atmospheric with big seas below ! |
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Logged Ascents
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Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)