Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A dominating groove-line in a strenuous old-school style.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the groove past a big flake, then head through a break in the bulge above to a good ledge at the faultline.
2) 5a, 18m. Follow the groove past a huge dubious block and continue to the top. The block is the size of a Mini car, and has no visible means of attachment but is still there - feeling lucky? © Rockfax
FA. Mick Nunn, Richard Crewe 17.7.1968. FFA. Brian Snell, W.Lyons.
Ticklists
All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: As regards the "block" we spent some while trying to avoid touching it but in the end as Graham D says using it is inevitable. Good route though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As regards the "block" we spent some while trying to avoid touching it but in the end as Graham D says using it is inevitable. Good route though. |
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| ap | 15 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: the dubious block is surprisingly solid though! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the dubious block is surprisingly solid though! |
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| GrahamD | 12 Nov, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fairly low in the grade but atmospheric. Pitch 1 would probably only get HVS 5a in the peak as a jamming exercise. The 'dubious block' on pitch 2 is the size of a mini with NO visible means of attachment. Laybacking the edge of this block appears unavoidable and is very unnerving. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fairly low in the grade but atmospheric. Pitch 1 would probably only get HVS 5a in the peak as a jamming exercise. The 'dubious block' on pitch 2 is the size of a mini with NO visible means of attachment. Laybacking the edge of this block appears unavoidable and is very unnerving. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Thunderball
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)