Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A classic crack-line which is sustained, athletic and protectable all the way. Start 10m right of the big corner below the line. It starts from a lower level and needs a low tide to reach.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the crack and strenuously gain an overhanging corner which leads to the faultline.
2) 5b, 18m. Pull through the roof above and move up to another one. Step right and over the roof then continue up the right-hand of two grooves. At the top step left to an exit scramble. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 4.9.1971. FFA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley 1977.
Ticklists
Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , Cool Names , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 13 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above! |
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| daveycrocket | 19 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B. |
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| kevin stephens | 6 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage. |
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| ap | 15 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: felt about that to me | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: felt about that to me |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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The Conger
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)