The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A mix of the sustained and strenuous on a strong line makes this a route worth tracking down. Start right of a corner, below a large roof.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up the thin wall to a large hanging flake and pull right into a short corner. Go up to a horizontal break, and traverse rightwards again, until just beyond a vertical crack. Climb the wall on reasonable holds to the faultline and belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Pull onto the wall above. Follow it to a corner and climb this to the top - the upper section of Strongbow. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Finklaire, D.Glover 21/Apr/1985.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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psicobloc | 10 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Pleasantly surprising route - better gear, and easier and better moves than expected! 2 stars! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasantly surprising route - better gear, and easier and better moves than expected! 2 stars! |
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kevin stephens | 7 May, 2002 |
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βeta: Al: I'm 5' 4.5" and didn't find reach a problem, how tall are you? Main problem geting pumped whilst trying to get gear in, awesome positions, top pitch deprives it of third star | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Al: I'm 5' 4.5" and didn't find reach a problem, how tall are you? Main problem geting pumped whilst trying to get gear in, awesome positions, top pitch deprives it of third star |
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tomrainbow | 18 Jun, 2001 |
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βeta: This is a very worthwhile route, the first pitch is especially fine. Varied climbing and a strong line. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is a very worthwhile route, the first pitch is especially fine. Varied climbing and a strong line. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)