Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The initial pitch takes a steep but well-protected corner; the second is less pressing but still provides plenty of interest right up until the end. Start on a small ledge below the corner.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner and make a steep pull up left to a ledge below an overhang at 8m. Continue steeply up the corner on good holds to a ledge and belay at the faultline.
2) 4b, 20m. Pull through the overhang using a finger-crack and move up to a slim corner. Climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge on the right at its end. Finish carefully. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is reports of some large loose blocks at 2/3 hieght. Take care until this has stabilised.
FA. Tony Wilmott, A.Heppenstall 18/Sep/1966.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Orange Spot Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paul Sagar | 8 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: There IS an abseil stake, it’s just hidden in the undergrowth. Search! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There IS an abseil stake, it’s just hidden in the undergrowth. Search! |
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| Stevos | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Well steep - HVS seems a sensible grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well steep - HVS seems a sensible grade. |
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| mikehenesy | 26 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: No loose blocks as suggested in a recent logbook entry. | βeta? | |
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βeta: No loose blocks as suggested in a recent logbook entry. |
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| Indignancy | 14 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Took one look at this today and walked past - some very loose and very massive stuff in the crack is just waiting to come out. | ||
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βeta: Took one look at this today and walked past - some very loose and very massive stuff in the crack is just waiting to come out. |
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| Andre Clarke | 12 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: First pitch a bit stiff for 4c but then again could be just because it was our warm up route and not a walk in park. Sea gulls nesting a break where belay is. They dive bombed my partner much to my shock and ever so slight amusement. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch a bit stiff for 4c but then again could be just because it was our warm up route and not a walk in park. Sea gulls nesting a break where belay is. They dive bombed my partner much to my shock and ever so slight amusement. |
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| Katsmiff | 11 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Sea gull nesting on first belay point 11.05.2019 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sea gull nesting on first belay point 11.05.2019 |
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| ian bryant | 27 May, 2007 |
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βeta: great climbing and great value | βeta? | |
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βeta: great climbing and great value |
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| jtree03 | 2 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 12 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock. |
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| Ewan | 24 Jul, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Lightning Wall Direct
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)