Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A challenging climb that is high in the grade.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a ledge. Continue to the faultline - belay over to the left next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Move up and left to below a groove. Boldy climb the grey wall up right and then back left to the groove. Follow this with difficulty past an old peg to the top. © Rockfax
FA. F.Clarke, Al Alvarez 1963.
Ticklists
Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Routes for MCI
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ThomCousins | 15 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Al forgot the belay in the middle so we did it in one mammoth pitch - no major repurcussions for this though! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Al forgot the belay in the middle so we did it in one mammoth pitch - no major repurcussions for this though! |
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| hawkridge812 | 14 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Oli lead the first 5 meters of pitch 1 placing one cam, at that point I was hit by 3 or 4 rouge waves which completely sent me flying. Fortunately The cam held and Oli remained on the wall. He then climbed another 2 meters before making a mid way panic anchor (to save me) consisting 3 nuts and 2 cams, he then ignored its existence and secured himself to the rock with a single nut. Soaking wet I followed up to him and lead the remainder of pitch 1. Ollie joined me at the anchor and kindly suggested I lead pitch 2 as ‘he didn’t fancy it’. Begrudgingly I lead pitch 2 soaking wet with an interesting chalk paste made by combining sea water and chalk, it was unsurprisingly ineffective. Despite being soaking wet in mid November the climbing was bloody good. Trudged home in the pitch black considering life choices and friends. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Oli lead the first 5 meters of pitch 1 placing one cam, at that point I was hit by 3 or 4 rouge waves which completely sent me flying. Fortunately The cam held and Oli remained on the wall. He then climbed another 2 meters before making a mid way panic anchor (to save me) consisting 3 nuts and 2 cams, he then ignored its existence and secured himself to the rock with a single nut. Soaking wet I followed up to him and lead the remainder of pitch 1. Ollie joined me at the anchor and kindly suggested I lead pitch 2 as ‘he didn’t fancy it’. Begrudgingly I lead pitch 2 soaking wet with an interesting chalk paste made by combining sea water and chalk, it was unsurprisingly ineffective. Despite being soaking wet in mid November the climbing was bloody good. Trudged home in the pitch black considering life choices and friends. |
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| Ramon Marin | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)