The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A big, atmospheric line that follows the right-bounding fissure above the small zawn. The start is sometimes damp and needs time to dry out.
1) 5b, 20m. Move into the back of the zawn (ledge) and climb outwards on the left wall (looking in) to gain a bottomless chimney and corner above - this leads to the faultline.
2) 5a, 22m. Climb the crack steeply past a roof. Continue in the same line to the top, finishing on a solid clean ledge. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 3.10.1971. FFA. Howard Lancashire 03/Oct/1971.
Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 21 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: do the soul sacrifice start, it's much cleaner and better climbing. the corner crack is quite dirty in places and the belay ledge is totally caked in guano. agree that the move over the roof should be 5b - i tried to turn it on the right but ended up coming back at the peg. reasonable gear all the way though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: do the soul sacrifice start, it's much cleaner and better climbing. the corner crack is quite dirty in places and the belay ledge is totally caked in guano. agree that the move over the roof should be 5b - i tried to turn it on the right but ended up coming back at the peg. reasonable gear all the way though. |
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psicobloc | 7 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did the alterative start up Soul Sacrifice so can’t comment on the first pitch but I thought the move over the roof on the second pitch was hard for 5a. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did the alterative start up Soul Sacrifice so can’t comment on the first pitch but I thought the move over the roof on the second pitch was hard for 5a. |
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Haggis | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do it in 3 pitches at least! 1 - Traverse to the back of the cave 5c 2 - Up and across the roof to a hanging belay just past the end of the roof 5b 3 - Follow the crackline to the top 5b Very interesting route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Do it in 3 pitches at least! 1 - Traverse to the back of the cave 5c 2 - Up and across the roof to a hanging belay just past the end of the roof 5b 3 - Follow the crackline to the top 5b Very interesting route. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)