Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A big, atmospheric line that follows the right-bounding fissure above the small zawn. The start is sometimes damp and needs time to dry out.
1) 5b, 20m. Move into the back of the zawn (ledge) and climb outwards on the left wall (looking in) to gain a bottomless chimney and corner above - this leads to the faultline.
2) 5a, 22m. Climb the crack steeply past a roof. Continue in the same line to the top, finishing on a solid clean ledge. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 3.10.1971. FFA. Howard Lancashire 03/Oct/1971.

Ticklists

Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: do the soul sacrifice start, it's much cleaner and better climbing. the corner crack is quite dirty in places and the belay ledge is totally caked in guano. agree that the move over the roof should be 5b - i tried to turn it on the right but ended up coming back at the peg. reasonable gear all the way though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: do the soul sacrifice start, it's much cleaner and better climbing. the corner crack is quite dirty in places and the belay ledge is totally caked in guano. agree that the move over the roof should be 5b - i tried to turn it on the right but ended up coming back at the peg. reasonable gear all the way though.
psicobloc 7 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did the alterative start up Soul Sacrifice so can’t comment on the first pitch but I thought the move over the roof on the second pitch was hard for 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the alterative start up Soul Sacrifice so can’t comment on the first pitch but I thought the move over the roof on the second pitch was hard for 5a.
Haggis 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Do it in 3 pitches at least! 1 - Traverse to the back of the cave 5c 2 - Up and across the roof to a hanging belay just past the end of the roof 5b 3 - Follow the crackline to the top 5b Very interesting route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do it in 3 pitches at least! 1 - Traverse to the back of the cave 5c 2 - Up and across the roof to a hanging belay just past the end of the roof 5b 3 - Follow the crackline to the top 5b Very interesting route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 4
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buccaneer

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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