The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A brilliant pitch up the centre of the soaring face. It has good gear but is strenuous and sustained. Start up the crack of Behemoth, then traverse right and take thin cracks to the faultline. Fight through the short chimney and cruise up the rib (peg) and white headwall on pockets. Eventually exit onto a good clean ledge. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 02/Feb/1983.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E3 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Hard Rock 2020 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 17 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: did this again yesterday and having now done a fair few 5b, 5c and 6a routes in swanage, i really think this deserves 5c. still superb though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: did this again yesterday and having now done a fair few 5b, 5c and 6a routes in swanage, i really think this deserves 5c. still superb though. |
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ian bryant | 21 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: wow! fantastic from start to finish! but man, it's pumpy!!!! my fingers were uncurling from the even biggest jugs by the top! i see some people think it's more like 5c than 5b - that may well be true...?? | ||
Show beta
βeta: wow! fantastic from start to finish! but man, it's pumpy!!!! my fingers were uncurling from the even biggest jugs by the top! i see some people think it's more like 5c than 5b - that may well be true...?? |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)