Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Start at a small corner, 15m left of the huge block sat under the roof. Unusually thuggy but non-technical climbing on pitch 2. Good gear is available.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge at the faultline.
1a) Merlin, E1 5b. A good alternative. Start to the left and head up to a roof before heading right on undercuts to a steep groove. The groove gives stiff moves that lead to the faultline and a belay at the top of the first pitch of October Lady.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the crack above, then undercut the long roof rightwards to an exposed exit groove (thread). Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Gunn, George Hounsome 25/Oct/1975.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 29 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Second pitch certainly merits 2 stars, some pretty mean thrutching combined with 'character building' exposure makes it one to remember (if only it could be longer!). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Second pitch certainly merits 2 stars, some pretty mean thrutching combined with 'character building' exposure makes it one to remember (if only it could be longer!). |
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| ian bryant | 14 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: great route. continuously good climbing all the way to the usual choss at the top! very pumpy second pitch - don't look down! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: great route. continuously good climbing all the way to the usual choss at the top! very pumpy second pitch - don't look down! |
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| psicobloc | 7 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: The second pitch is mind blowing – go and do it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The second pitch is mind blowing – go and do it! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Elysium
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)