Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Contrasting features define this popular route. Easy climbing leads upwards to a delicate slab, which leads in turn leftwards to an enjoyable roof. Unusual climbing for the area and a touch run out. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
JKelly 3 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Easy start, but then at roof top a. It tricky and bold move if you are short ?.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy start, but then at roof top a. It tricky and bold move if you are short ?.
Albie 20 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I was intimidated by the overhang on this one as well as the long run-outs. But I managed get to the overhang in good form. This may be unusual climb for swannage but having spent an afternoon at Sheeps' Tor on a couple of Severe's with overhang finnishes, this proved to be a straightforward. Boosted my confidence no end
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I was intimidated by the overhang on this one as well as the long run-outs. But I managed get to the overhang in good form. This may be unusual climb for swannage but having spent an afternoon at Sheeps' Tor on a couple of Severe's with overhang finnishes, this proved to be a straightforward. Boosted my confidence no end
Ewan 10 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nice roof swings at the top, felt like 5a if done direct, although I think the route might start slightly right of that shown on the photo topo.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice roof swings at the top, felt like 5a if done direct, although I think the route might start slightly right of that shown on the photo topo.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 64
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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