17m.

Rockfax Description
The wide corner/groove. A long and interesting pitch that culminates in a spectacular pull over the roof on a good pocket. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at The Cuttings , Portland , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport)

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User Date Notes
Stephen Nunes 1 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Crack gloves
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βeta: Crack gloves
Ari_kneebars 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great warm up route but a LOT of pigeon poop in the crack…
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βeta: Great warm up route but a LOT of pigeon poop in the crack…
Tommy Gunn 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: looks like a wasp nest 2/3 up
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βeta: looks like a wasp nest 2/3 up
luke43 30 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: super route, easier than it looks!
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βeta: super route, easier than it looks!
Garyx 21 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I really like this climb, for ages I couldn't complete it until today when I led it!! A nemisis no more!
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βeta: I really like this climb, for ages I couldn't complete it until today when I led it!! A nemisis no more!
omniscient_penguin 18 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is a good, enjoyable climb although very dusty about half way up. The start is a stepladder but once up into the crack the overhang provides the crux. Not an especially difficult move as there are nice juggy grips on the left hand side above the overhang, but if your bridging technique is anywhere near as shoddy as mine this becomes a tough climb. With bridging it's pretty much a straight run up and a reach over. Very much a mindgame for me: it's quite high to be trusting to friction.
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βeta: This is a good, enjoyable climb although very dusty about half way up. The start is a stepladder but once up into the crack the overhang provides the crux. Not an especially difficult move as there are nice juggy grips on the left hand side above the overhang, but if your bridging technique is anywhere near as shoddy as mine this becomes a tough climb. With bridging it's pretty much a straight run up and a reach over. Very much a mindgame for me: it's quite high to be trusting to friction.
shane 31 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Led this on 28/1/6. Really nice moves in a big corner with overhang at top. Will do this again and should see much more traffic.
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βeta: Led this on 28/1/6. Really nice moves in a big corner with overhang at top. Will do this again and should see much more traffic.
Richard Horn 12 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Whoever voted 'Bag of' for this route needs to get a life. Ok it is still dusty in places but you wont find many F4s with moves as satisfying and exposed as those round the roof on this route.
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βeta: Whoever voted 'Bag of' for this route needs to get a life. Ok it is still dusty in places but you wont find many F4s with moves as satisfying and exposed as those round the roof on this route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 103
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slings Shot

Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)

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