Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

25m. Sharp and chossy. The half height bulge is the crux (poor rock!), but nasty razors with a big runout might bar progress into the 'lions eye'. Span right from the white scoop to good finishing holds just right of the belay, or head up and slightly left (slightly harder), for a better finish.

Matt Cox Apr/2009.

Ticklists

Cheddar Eight's , Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks , The next logical step , South West 8's , UK 8a and up , 8s with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
i_a_coops 23 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: the crimp on the top crux with the sharp thumb spike has come off. It still goes but adds several hard hand moves and is even rattier now, definitely bumps the grade of the top boulder up a notch or two.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the crimp on the top crux with the sharp thumb spike has come off. It still goes but adds several hard hand moves and is even rattier now, definitely bumps the grade of the top boulder up a notch or two.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Not that kind of pussy

Grade: 8a+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge North)

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