Restricted Access
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
Good climbing. Head for the open scoop right of The Bad Seeds. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 01/Nov/1994.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 23 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but finding a good hold to clip the 2nd bolt off is quite trying if nothing is chalked. The crux is enjoyably technical and you need a little bit of umph left for the move to the last runner. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but finding a good hold to clip the 2nd bolt off is quite trying if nothing is chalked. The crux is enjoyably technical and you need a little bit of umph left for the move to the last runner. |
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| Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Ah yes, the bird shit encrusted break - reminds me of Swanage somewhat... I though the climbing above half height was superb and better than anything on Glamour Cat. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ah yes, the bird shit encrusted break - reminds me of Swanage somewhat... I though the climbing above half height was superb and better than anything on Glamour Cat. |
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| Chris Shorter | 1 Oct, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing but if felt like 6c to me. The 2nd clip is a bit dodgy as you have to hang on a friable hold to reach the staple. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing but if felt like 6c to me. The 2nd clip is a bit dodgy as you have to hang on a friable hold to reach the staple. |
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| tomrainbow | 14 May, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: The original grade of 6b+ seems about right for this route - it is certainly no harder than The Watchman. Better than Glamour Cat or 1789 - the rock in the top half is excellent. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The original grade of 6b+ seems about right for this route - it is certainly no harder than The Watchman. Better than Glamour Cat or 1789 - the rock in the top half is excellent. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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No Man is an Island
Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)