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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

25m.

Rockfax Description
Climb directly up the middle of the wall and finish direct over the top roof. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/Jul/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian)

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomrainbow 14 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The belay on the direct finish seems badly positioned - it is more logical to climb the rib directly (just right of the last bolt) but this leaves you about 4 feet away from the belay bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay on the direct finish seems badly positioned - it is more logical to climb the rib directly (just right of the last bolt) but this leaves you about 4 feet away from the belay bolts.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Acid Jazz Disco

Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend North)

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