Rockfax Description
260m. A long route connecting some good bits of rock with short walking sections. Take a small rack.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the steep wall and a pleasant slab then step left around an arête and climb up the right-facing groove.
2) 4c, 30m. A bouldery move straight off the belay leads to a left-rising traverse. Follow this to a bolt belay in the trees.
Walk down leftwards for 100m to reach a bolt belay at the foot of a corner, below a steep orange wall above.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner before moving right and climbing the slab and steep, juggy wall above. There are no bolts on the steep section, and a medium-sized cam is useful. Belay on the slab above.
4) 4b, 25m. An exposed move from the belay leads to an excellent rising traverse leftwards up a vague groove. Follow this to another belay in the trees.
Descend leftwards for 50m on a vague path and then across a large boulder to reach the foot of a slab.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the superb slab, drifting rightwards.
6) 4c, 30m. Climb the slab on the right, following it to a ledge with a steep corner on the left and a steep wall on the right. Climb the wall on the right (past two bolts which are difficult to spot from below) and belay above.
7) 4a, 20m. A short, scrappy pitch. Step right and up from the belay to reach the gully. Cross this and climb the rib on the right (two bolts) to a ledge. Walk 10m right to reach another belay.
8) 4c, 25m. There are no bolts for the first 10m (and only two for the pitch) so medium cams may again be useful if this is near your limit. The pitch begins with excellent flakes and then leads left onto a slab followed by the belay.
9) 4a, 25m. Continue up the slab with more bolts than the last pitch, to reach the belay on the underside of a boulder.
Walk off to the left to reach the Clocher-Clochetons path.
It is possible (and worthwhile) to do one more pitch on a small buttress.
10) 5a, 25m. A green slab leads to a steep chimney and another slab. The bolts end at the top of the second slab, but a further 10m of arête follows. The climbing is good but feels spicy given that the upper section is basically a solo! Either abseil off the back to the base, or walk around. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Alps 2023 , Summer easier alpine , Cham Sep 24

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