50m, 3 pitches.
P1: 3c Move diagonally left across the slab.
P2: 4c Pull up over the bulge and then follow a sustained left trending crack/overlap
P3: 4b Move up to head wall and then traverse delicately right under roof then exit up groove. Watch for rope-drag.
Note: Although probably the best route on the main face there is no topo for this in the Wicklow Guide Book. The line is P1 of Spearhead, continue 2m to left and up, belay, straight up over bulge, follow line of pathfinder (or maybe left of this) to next belay, Claidheamh Solus finish.
P2: 4c Pull up over the bulge and then follow a sustained left trending crack/overlap
P3: 4b Move up to head wall and then traverse delicately right under roof then exit up groove. Watch for rope-drag.
Note: Although probably the best route on the main face there is no topo for this in the Wicklow Guide Book. The line is P1 of Spearhead, continue 2m to left and up, belay, straight up over bulge, follow line of pathfinder (or maybe left of this) to next belay, Claidheamh Solus finish.
C. Rice, P. Redmond, 9/10/1971 09/Oct/1971.
Ticklists
Ireland 2 Star VS , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes , Luggala , Multipitches
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Route of Interest
Spillikin-Fanfare-SpÊirbhean
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glendalough (Ireland))