75m, 3 pitches.
Offer it up on P1...things will get better! P1, 4a, 25m. Climb unpleasant lichenous run out slab with no gear, go up gorsy groove and swing left past vegetation to tree belay to recover.
P2, 5a, 27m offers superb climbing, quite pumpy but the gear is good. Route wanders a lot, so watch out for drag. Top of the grade. From the tree, climb the steep corner behind the tree, exiting on good holds. Move up to gain a ledge and climb the steep right-trending ramp, with an awkward move to start. At the top of the ramp move up and slightly left to gain a short groove. Up this past a small holly tree to a stance at a large crevasse.
P3, 23m, 4a: Traverse left below an overlap to a tree and follow the clean slanting groove above to the Terrace. The original finish to this climb took the final pitch of Crevasse Route at tough, quite airy 4c, probably a better finish!
P2, 5a, 27m offers superb climbing, quite pumpy but the gear is good. Route wanders a lot, so watch out for drag. Top of the grade. From the tree, climb the steep corner behind the tree, exiting on good holds. Move up to gain a ledge and climb the steep right-trending ramp, with an awkward move to start. At the top of the ramp move up and slightly left to gain a short groove. Up this past a small holly tree to a stance at a large crevasse.
P3, 23m, 4a: Traverse left below an overlap to a tree and follow the clean slanting groove above to the Terrace. The original finish to this climb took the final pitch of Crevasse Route at tough, quite airy 4c, probably a better finish!
K. Higgs, S. Windrim, P. Ewen, 19/9/1979 19/Sep/1979.
Ticklists
Ireland 3 Star HVS , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seán Fortune | 23 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gave it a decent clean afterwards, should be in pretty good nick now bar the first 10m or so | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Gave it a decent clean afterwards, should be in pretty good nick now bar the first 10m or so |
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Route of Interest
Sarcophagus
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Glendalough (Ireland))