Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FA. Steve Taylor 14/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 17 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: There is a bolted line to the left, between this route and the crack of the trad route, The Enema Within. This also features a peapod-shaped groove. I thought it was probably F6c+ but particularly difficult on-sight. Does anyone know what this route is?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a bolted line to the left, between this route and the crack of the trad route, The Enema Within. This also features a peapod-shaped groove. I thought it was probably F6c+ but particularly difficult on-sight. Does anyone know what this route is?
Climber_Bill 26 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for the grade! Thought this was certainly 6c+. Good climbing though for such a short little route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard for the grade! Thought this was certainly 6c+. Good climbing though for such a short little route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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