Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A very worthwhile climb that takes on a bouldery lower wall to a superb upper section of brilliant rock. © Rockfax
FA. Nic Hellyer 07/Dec/1996.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Cool Names , Portland Sendathon , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ben Thorne | 12 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agreed and agreed John. Not seen much traffic on the route over the years, so it can pick up dirt. Yes, the fall from the bottom of the scoop can be nasty. That being said, neither of these affect the technical difficulty of the route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Agreed and agreed John. Not seen much traffic on the route over the years, so it can pick up dirt. Yes, the fall from the bottom of the scoop can be nasty. That being said, neither of these affect the technical difficulty of the route. |
||||
| John Alcock | 3 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unlike Ben I found it quite hard for the grade. I scooped some more dirt off the first mantle. I thought the bolt which protects the second mantle was unnecessarily and dangerously low (and I'm a shortie). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Unlike Ben I found it quite hard for the grade. I scooped some more dirt off the first mantle. I thought the bolt which protects the second mantle was unnecessarily and dangerously low (and I'm a shortie). |
||||
| Tom Beaumont | 17 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The ledge is covered in rubble | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The ledge is covered in rubble |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Trad Free World
Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)