Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
A fine flowstone sheet with a couple of brain-like holds. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 26/Feb/1995.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fierce crimping on the 1st crux. Hard to on-sight
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fierce crimping on the 1st crux. Hard to on-sight
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the staple on the crux is in solid rock i know i placed it if you can pullit out without the help of a jack/fat belayer, then sue me!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the staple on the crux is in solid rock i know i placed it if you can pullit out without the help of a jack/fat belayer, then sue me!
JIMBO 20 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: RE: Hollow Ground... I'm over the heavy side of 12 stone nearly 13 and managed not too pull it off! However, never again!! Not really 6b+ physically but worth the extra for sheer fear. When it comes off it might leave something better and harder - fingers crossed :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: RE: Hollow Ground... I'm over the heavy side of 12 stone nearly 13 and managed not too pull it off! However, never again!! Not really 6b+ physically but worth the extra for sheer fear. When it comes off it might leave something better and harder - fingers crossed :)
tomrainbow 6 Sep, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Did this and Master of the Rolls on the same day, thought this was harder and I could reach the hold! An excellent route though, the hard stuff just doesn't go on for long enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this and Master of the Rolls on the same day, thought this was harder and I could reach the hold! An excellent route though, the hard stuff just doesn't go on for long enough.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Best Fingers Forward

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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