Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile line past a stuck-on ledge to a hard groove. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor, Joff Cook, Damian Cook 10/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
steve taylor 14 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's a one move wonder - layback for one move and then the good holds appear. English 6a, but a single move off a ledge, with a bolt by your arse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a one move wonder - layback for one move and then the good holds appear. English 6a, but a single move off a ledge, with a bolt by your arse.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't do the move into the groove, at a time when I was on-sighting 7 a. Rigged a top rope (by looping out left and back) and still couldn't do it. Is it hard or just reachy?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't do the move into the groove, at a time when I was on-sighting 7 a. Rigged a top rope (by looping out left and back) and still couldn't do it. Is it hard or just reachy?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ausfahrt

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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