Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The initial bolt is very high. A stopper start is now higher that it used to be and needs some luck to find the correct sequence. The remainder is delightful, assuming you find the good holds at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Janet Horrocks, George Ridge 06/Apr/1998.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Natalie's Challenges , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rockmonkey1977 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stuff was snapping and crumbling all over the place below the first bolt. If you don’t have a 10m long clip stick I’d suggest climbing the line to the right first then get your rope in as you’re cleaning it....
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βeta: Stuff was snapping and crumbling all over the place below the first bolt. If you don’t have a 10m long clip stick I’d suggest climbing the line to the right first then get your rope in as you’re cleaning it....
Dan Browne 29 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Ground has obviously subsided, start up Slumberland
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βeta: Ground has obviously subsided, start up Slumberland
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: cracking route , low in the grade but high on quality, top effort by our porridge munching friends!
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βeta: cracking route , low in the grade but high on quality, top effort by our porridge munching friends!
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Ferocious crimpy start, then pleasant varied climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Ferocious crimpy start, then pleasant varied climbing.
Alan James - Rockfax 3 Apr, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: A thin start to reach the second bolt and difficult pull to finish. A delightful route.
βeta?
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βeta: A thin start to reach the second bolt and difficult pull to finish. A delightful route.

Logged Ascents

157 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 22 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ausfahrt

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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