Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A very nice climb up the wall, scoop and roof. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 14/Oct/1990.
Ticklists
Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NJaycock | 19 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Could do with an extra bolt at the start. The ground has dropped putting the first bolt above the 2nd bolt on some of the adjacent climbs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Could do with an extra bolt at the start. The ground has dropped putting the first bolt above the 2nd bolt on some of the adjacent climbs. |
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| Wilbur | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: took a big lob off the last bolt when just below it - v pumpy as the description warns! Good clean fall though... | βeta? | |
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βeta: took a big lob off the last bolt when just below it - v pumpy as the description warns! Good clean fall though... |
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| Ben Stokes | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: OK I heard you the first time! | βeta? | |
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βeta: OK I heard you the first time! |
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| John Alcock | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I reckon if your feet slipped when you were grabbing the hole which takes the thread, or while clipping the bolt, you'd really smash your legs on the groove below. Obviously when you know the route it doesn't matter, but I still think the thread would be nice to have for an on-sight. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I reckon if your feet slipped when you were grabbing the hole which takes the thread, or while clipping the bolt, you'd really smash your legs on the groove below. Obviously when you know the route it doesn't matter, but I still think the thread would be nice to have for an on-sight. |
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| John Alcock | 13 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I reckon if your feet slipped when you were grabbing the hole which takes the thread, or while clipping the bolt, you'd really smash your legs on the groove below. Obviously when you know the route it doesn't matter, but I still think the thread would be nice to have for an on-sight. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I reckon if your feet slipped when you were grabbing the hole which takes the thread, or while clipping the bolt, you'd really smash your legs on the groove below. Obviously when you know the route it doesn't matter, but I still think the thread would be nice to have for an on-sight. |
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| Ben Stokes | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: John, I've never clipped the thread, and don't really see the need to. | βeta? | |
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βeta: John, I've never clipped the thread, and don't really see the need to. |
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| Jus | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: I couldn't find any particularly hard move. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I couldn't find any particularly hard move. |
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| John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Feels slightly bold, but okay if you get a move on. Nice varied climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Feels slightly bold, but okay if you get a move on. Nice varied climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Ocean Drive
Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)