Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A direct and fingery testpiece. Keep right at the overlap. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 26/Mar/1989.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dinodinosaur | 25 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wtf is the Bolting on this before the pre crux rest? Needs a new bolt to replace the old rusty one | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wtf is the Bolting on this before the pre crux rest? Needs a new bolt to replace the old rusty one |
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| Dandan | 3 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crux move at the overlap can be done using a shallow undercut for the left hand so that you don\'t need to lunge for the greasy holds above and can do the move static. From the small central flake/crack undercut with the left hand, reach the right hand up to the shallow pocket above you to the right (finding a thumb catch helps). Get both feet on the pair of dark/greasy footholds either side of the crack line. Reach left hand under the overhanging block to your left and find the undercut. Step right foot up and through to tiny flowstone rib, and move left foot out left to a small dark nubbin. Stand up on right foot, right hip in, reach right hand up and over to right-most part of the break above. Swap left foot to where right is, and bring left hand up to hold next to right hand. Sort feet out and move up to better holds. The undercut had very little chalk on it so i\'m guessing some people miss it. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Crux move at the overlap can be done using a shallow undercut for the left hand so that you don't need to lunge for the greasy holds above and can do the move static. From the small central flake/crack undercut with the left hand, reach the right hand up to the shallow pocket above you to the right (finding a thumb catch helps). Get both feet on the pair of dark/greasy footholds either side of the crack line. Reach left hand under the overhanging block to your left and find the undercut. Step right foot up and through to tiny flowstone rib, and move left foot out left to a small dark nubbin. Stand up on right foot, right hip in, reach right hand up and over to right-most part of the break above. Swap left foot to where right is, and bring left hand up to hold next to right hand. Sort feet out and move up to better holds. The undercut had very little chalk on it so i'm guessing some people miss it. |
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| Ben Stokes | 25 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: No where near as fingery as some Battleship Edge or Cuttings routes of a similar grade. Good climbing throughout and don't think the route's in the bag until you actually get to the LO... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No where near as fingery as some Battleship Edge or Cuttings routes of a similar grade. Good climbing throughout and don't think the route's in the bag until you actually get to the LO... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Hawaiian Pipeline
Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)